When in 1997, Nicholas Ghesquière took over the venerated fashion house of Cristobal Balenciaga, he was completely unknown. However within a few seasons he was producing highly influential and coveted collections and was being dubbed 'fashion's new messiah' by style aficionados. His expertise in the skills of cutting and draping has made him one of today's most applauded and respected contemporary designers.

For Spring, Ghesquière showed flounced cocktail dresses, inspired by a 1958 Balenciaga original and given a modernist update by the addition of glossy cummerbunds and high gladiator sandals. Elegant gold-buttoned and braided naval jackets were paired with fluid, gorgeously easy sailor pants. Interesting and refreshing, Balenciaga took another leap forward with beautifully unusual silhouettes and innovative clothes.

Dress £1415.