What the Critics Say

Square Meal 2008 (1 star)

OXO Tower Brasserie
Another South Bank contender for 'the best view in London', the OXO Tower Brasserie offers a stonking ringside seat overlooking the river & its embankment. This is the cheaper - or more accurately, the less eye-wateringly expensive - half of Harvey Nicks's Bankside venue. The menu blends the best of Asia (pork & coconut patties with papaya salad, a red Thai curry of sea bass) with Italian influences (orechiette pasta with asparagus and saffron cream sauce or chicken breast with caponata & Taleggio-infused polenta), with touches of North Africa & Latin America thrown in for good measure - but there's no confusion in the fusion. There's a vegan menu on offer too. All this, combined with a 'brilliantly relaxed' atmosphere, generous portions & impressive service, make the Brasserie one of London's star venues.
 
 
OXO Tower Restaurant
Although the OXO Tower Restaurant is, for most diners, a special occasion venue, the vibe is pleasantly informal. The polished, professional staff are attentive but discreet and clever acoustics allow the space to buzz with diners' chat without being too loud. The views are great, but make sure you book a table that overlooks the river to avoid dining against a backdrop of south London's tower blocks. The food lives up to the view (of the Thames, not the tower blocks) - a plateful of white crab meat served with a light avocado mousse & corn blinis was fresh and zesty, while a main of Dover sole with chickpeas, chorizo & squid provides an unexpected combination of flavours. Rich venison is complemented by a sweet-sour tamarillo puree. The wine list is long but prices climb steeply from the £20 mark, and despite the eclectic selection on offer, sommeliers tend to steer customers towards safe choices. This, however, is the main complaint about a restaurant that, despite being 'very expensive', offers a 'great experience - the perfect place for a business lunch, dinner with friends or a romantic evening'.
 
WINE LIST: OXO's list has been getting steadily better over recent years & is now one of the best in London. There are 25 wines by the glass including six Champagnes. The rest of the list covers the world with the classic regions, Australia and the USA standing out. A noteworthy innovation is a policy of capped service charge for the expensive bottles.

TimeOut Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

The trio of Harvey Nichols-owned venues occupying the eighth floor of the OXO Tower (restaurant, brasserie, bar) are renowned for one thing: fantastic views. Stylish summer terraces and huge windows make the most of the setting, while the fresh, international vibe (think plenty of light and a lively, upwardly mobile clientele) might transport you to Sydney Harbour - until you take in the London sights below.
 
Food is also part of the draw. Everything we sampled from the brasserie menu was fresh and well executed. Dishes sway towards Italy: typical starters include buffalo mozzarella with green beans, roasted tomatoes and black olive tapenade; mains feature the likes of chicken breast with caponata, taleggio cheese and freed polenta; or porcini and ricotta tortellini.
 
There are clear nods towards the East (Thai pork and coconut patties) and North Africa (chermoula spiced lamb rack with a chorizo and chickpea tagine), and vegetarians get their own menu (on request). The long wine list offers a decent selection of half bottles and wines by the glass. Professional service rounds off the experience nicely.

Tatler Restaurant Guide 2008

Stretching from Westminster to the City on the riverside, and with south London laid out like a carpet at the rear, OXO Tower's views are terrific. The white, bright, almost minimalist decoration in both the restaurant and brasserie is looking spruce and the kitchen, under Jeremy Bloor, is very reliable, if not especially innovative (although we thought a dish of slow roast venison with wild boar speck and grand veneur absolutely shone). In the brasserie, you eat less formally than in the restaurant, but both have bags of atmosphere. Bear in mind that the food is not exactly given away - nor are the wines.

The AA Restaurant Guide 2008

Echoing the design of a 1930s ocean liner, this stylish modern restaurant is beautiful in its simplicity. Situated on the eighth floor with glass down both sides, it features a unique louvred ceiling with blue neon lights which creates a beautiful moonlit effect in the evenings. There's also a long open terrace enabling diners to take full advantage of the stunning views over the Thames and St Paul's, and leather-clad bars, slate tables and original art all add to the luxurious feel.

The innovative modern European menu features a series of classics with a twist, as well as a sprinkling of dishes combining Mediterranean/Pacific Rim and French/Asian ingredients. Tempting descriptions highlight each dish's many component parts, as in a starter of salt-and-pepper cuttlefish with watermelon, mint and coconut salad and chilli caramel, or sea bass with confit garlic-braised haricot beans, roasted cherry tomatoes and truffle oil mascarpone.

BA Highlife, February 2008

Top Ten Restaurants in London - OXO Tower Restaurant

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