Volnay Premier Cru Les Champans 2013
Domaine Joseph Voillot’s Volnay from the Premier Cru site Les Champans pops with tangy redcurrants, cranberries, raspberries and pomegranate, beautifully balanced by the sweetness of cherries and marmalade. There’s also an ever-so-slightly rustic edge and a foresty earthiness to it. Far from being an imperfection, this latter note makes it a far more intriguing proposition than some of its more polished rivals. And it’s drinking wonderfully now, so this is a wine to take to dinner parties.
Joseph Voillot died in 2014 and the mantle was passed to his son-in-law. Jean-Pierre Charlot had been a professor at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune teaching winemaking and his father worked for Bouchard Père et Fils, so wine was already in his blood. What he has done at Domaine Joseph Voillot has made him, for us, one of Burgundy’s unsung heroes. Although massively respected by his fellow vignerons and those in-the-know, for some reason he remains inexplicably under the radar. He’s the archetypal winemaker’s winemaker and one of respected wine critic Neal Martin’s favourite growers. According to Neal Martin the “soulful wines” made at Domaine Joseph Voillot are a “masterclass in understatement, letting the terroir do all the talking.” And he isn’t alone in his praise, fellow Burgundy expert John Gilman describes this estate as “clearly one of the top addresses for first class Volnay”, while Allen Meadows of Burghound notes that “every single wine in the range is recommended and that is something that rarely occurs”.
Jean-Pierre Charlot has moved the domaine away from too much new oak, lowered the sulphur additions and stopped fining the reds, making them vegan friendly. Anyone with a love of terroir and the more old-school side of Burgundy, needs to be all over Jean-Pierre Charlot’s wines.£10 per 100.00ml
SKU No.: 3068460
Style No.: 755935
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