Italian wine seems to have found a new groove. There’s a sense that winemakers are owning their indigenous grape varieties, eschewing quantity and instead chasing quality and originality, and developing the confidence to break free from prescriptive wine laws to pursue a more natural approach. This bottle is testament to that.
Eugenio Rosi mastered his art at cooperatives in Trentino. Now, championing natural and sustainable production, he and his wife Tamara make three reds, a sweet wine and one white called Anisos. This is that solitary white wine, a low sulphur, natural and biodynamic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and the rarely seen but intriguingly hazelnutty Nosiola. Fermented on the skins and aged in big old oak barrels for one year to enhance the richness and nuttiness. So unfeasibly complex, when writing a tasting note it starts to sound more like a single malt whisky. There’s nectarines, yellow egg plums and peaches poached with saffron and vanilla, smoked peppercorns, chamomile tea, mandarin juice, toasted hazelnuts and cumin seeds, and a talcum powder chalkiness to the finish.
Open this artisan white alongside a simple salad of sliced tomatoes and burrata, pan-fried scamorza with a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of chilli flakes, tagines, mezze, roasted cauliflower with romesco sauce or creamy pasta topped with crushed walnuts.
£4.73 per 100.00ml
SKU No.: 2803986
Style No.: 700521
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