Tory Burch sets a romantic tone for Autumn/Winter 2018

While referencing house signatures – preppy accents and a bohemian sensibility – this season Tory Burch moved towards a more refined aesthetic that centres on chic cuts and relaxed femininity.

The American socialite Lee Radziwill, the stylish sister of Jackie O, provided inspiration for the collection, characterised by Burch’s signature blend of hippie influences mixed with Upper East Side polish, seen in ruffle-trimmed dresses, romantic skirts and patchwork silks.

A recurring motif was the bursting chintz floral called Happy Times – the title of Radziwill’s memoir and a fitting name given the joie de vivre of the range.

Nostalgia, as is often the case with Burch’s collections, also had its moment via 50s pussy-bow blouses, ’60s baby-doll chemises and ’70s pie-crust collars. The kaftan, too – a favourite of the designer – found its way onto the catwalk, layered over relaxed trousers of the kind worn by the Bouvier sisters.

Balance was key in the collection, as trailing gowns with organza trim – like those worn by Mad Men’s Betty Draper – were modernised with the addition of pointed booties. Mismatching prints are another way to go boho, as is abundant layering, Burch piled shearling-lined parkas over shaggy coats that evoked the hippie heyday the label loves. Clothes aside, the main mood of the collection was a sense of lightness and optimism – Happy Times that will see us well into spring.