Go over the rainbow with patchwork, tie-dye, loose silhouettes and good vibes
The fabric equivalent of a lava lamp, tie-dye has transcended its hippie origins and climbed to the highest echelons of fashion. Though an ancient textile process, tie-dye is most associated with flower children and Cali skate-and-surf culture. The latter serves as inspiration for Collina Strada, where psychedelic swirls are splashed across slouchy hoodies, bikinis and dresses (SS19), and tights, tees and eyelids for AW19. As Woodstock reaches its 50th anniversary, we can expect plenty of counter-culture references – Janis Joplin’s top-to-toe tie-dye look notwithstanding. KEY DESIGNERS: Proenza Schouler, Stella McCartney and R13
Patchwork has long been relegated to the realm of ‘fancy-dress fashion’ – just google ‘hippie outfits’ if you need proof – but thanks to a roster of high-fashion houses including Chloé and Diane von Furstenberg, the jigsaw print is having a resurgence. Zimmermann based SS19's signature Ninety-Six Patch print on 70s soap operas and closed the show with a billowing paisley prairie dress. While Loewe returned to Ibiza’s bohemian heyday with its third collaboration with Paula’s Ibiza as well as a medley of mismatched shirts and dresses.
KEY DESIGNERS: Peter Pilotto, Zimmermann and Free People
Studio 54, Ziggy Stardust, the Spice Girls, Naomi taking a tumble in Vivienne Westwood’s mega Ghillie shoes – platforms have an elevated place in fashion’s collective conscience. So, it’s little surprise that the stacked style frequently does the runway rounds: see Alexander McQueen’s 2010 Armadillo boots for proof that no one's scared to send models down the runway in towering shoes. YSL’s Tribute heels are today’s power platform, making it into Vogue’s Most Iconic Shoes list. But for a retro trip, Aquazzura is like Jerry Hall and Bianca Jagger rolled into one.
KEY DESIGNERS: Aquazzura, Saint Laurent and Valentino
For Cher vibes, you’ll want to go for a pair that’s slim-fitting on the thigh then kicks out below the knee. A cropped kick-flare gives a similar result and has more trend longevity. For those cautious of co-opting the bell-bottom silhouette, Chloé’s louche silk style sits just the right side of boho-luxe and evokes images of hazy Moroccan riads complete with ornate textiles, scatter cushions and ceramics. Incidentally, Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s ‘hippie modernism’ draws from Moroccan and Ibizan influences. KEY DESIGNERS: Missoni, Chloé and Zimmermann
Always a staple come festival season – and in films like Rocket Man – coloured specs are set to become a headline act. Chloé has long championed coloured shades and there’s plenty of high fashion houses following suit – Dior, Miu Miu and Fendi, to name a few – along with a roster of labels whose styles get the Glastonbury green light. Le Specs’ and Crap Eyewear’s retro frames are perfect for trying out the trend. Feeling dubious? Start with a tinted brown pair before going full Elton John. KEY DESIGNERS: Chloé, Marni and Moy Atelier