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From Andy Warhol’s Factory in the 60s, to Jamel Shabazz chronicling the rise of hip-hop fashion in the early 80s and the club kids that stormed the downtown scene later that decade, New York streets – like London’s – have long been a catalyst for DIY designs, street style and trickle-up fashion. Here, we chart the four trends that dominated NYFW.
Go bright. Go bold. Get drunk on merlot tones and house red hues if that’s your thing. As always, fashion week provided a platform for peacocking, and hot colours are as prolific as black – which holds water as the industry’s go-to colour.
If summer was about dressing like fruit salad sweets, as Refinery29 proclaimed (to our glee), then autumn is about dopamine dressing. Eudon Choi’s apple-green suit gave editors a much-needed vitamin hit, while celebrated colourists Sies Marjan and Roksanda embraced the full spectrum with shades spanning slime green (another trend still on a sugar high), lemon and Prussian blue. Channel the attitude and energy of model, activist, soon-to-be author and poster girl for dressing like summer Naomi Shimada with bright, bold tones. Or, if you’re feeling a little dubious – ye of little faith of the mood-boosting power of bright tones – writer Eni Subair’s Instagram is a masterclass in embracing colour – one gummy green sock at a time.
SHOP BRIGHT & BOLD
As we learned from MTV’s The Hills – or rather, Kelly Cutrone’s seemingly endless array of black power suits – fashion week is all about executive realness/being a boss/*insert other hackneyed hashtags here*. And, as always, there was plenty of that on the catwalk – and the sidewalk.
Eudon Choi played with masculine tropes and 70s silhouettes, resulting in oversized blazers that, when cinched at the waist, transform into the favoured shape of AW19: tight waists and wide shoulders (and just like that, we’re into the 80s). Want to imitate this effect, but without restriction? Roksanda’s black blazer is spliced with ballet-slipper-pink panels, providing a trompe l'oeil finish that echoes the trend. Brøgger’s Gurli blazer makes a return for AW19 – and this time it comes in patchwork. Gone are the millennial-pink ruffles; the accents for this year’s boxy blazer are delicate gold buttons and colour-block panels. So, in short, there’s a suit to, well, suit everyone.
Well, actually, it’s just entering. What better time to make like the trees (and the editors) and shed bold botanicals in favour of earthy umbers and darkly romantic florals? New Yorker Batsheva Hay continues to call on The Waltons for inspiration; her brand's prairie dresses are trimmed with Victoriana flounces that can be offset with graphic accents for a modernist touch.
Dries Van Noten – known for deft tailoring and masterful prints – employs both in the boxy Babel suit, as spotted on editor and doyenne of street style Caroline Issa, whose love of great tailoring is well documented. Moving away from the tropical florals and sunny optimism that characterised the warmer months, autumn welcomes pressed flowers that evoke a sultrier mood befitting early evenings and the reintroduction of red wine. Rosé and hibiscus print who?
Have you even been to fashion week if you weren’t papped? Ensure your place on the street-style roundup and capture the lenses of the likes of Tommy Ton, Darren Gerrish and Phil Oh with eye-catching accessories.
Wandler’s zingy aesthetic has proved to be catnip to photographers – Business of Fashion dubbed the Dutch label the “next street style it-brand” – and the cut-out Issa mules and signature Hortensia bag have already appeared on Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar’s NYFW coverage.
Not for the faint-hearted, Yuul Yie’s sculptural heels and quirky finishes – hammered silver heels and snake-print straps – attract eyes to the ground. Plus, the pleasingly wearable heel height allows for a full day of pounding the pavement like the fashion-hungry superfan you are. If in doubt, go for bold branding – logomania is still riding high with no signs of the tide turning.